Game Drive: Black Rhino and African Painted Dogs!
During our first trip to South Africa (July 2014) we visited Sabi Sands Game Reserve. Sabi Sands borders the southern edge of Kruger National Park. We visited Sabi Sands with the hope to see leopards. Spoiler alert — we saw 3 separate leopards on numerous occasions!! Watch for a future blog on our leopard sightings. There is just something about South Africa, it demands that you return —- like many before us —we were planning a return trip on our flight home. While it took us longer to get back than we wanted, it was worth the wait.
This fall we returned to South Africa and visited Madikwe Game Reserve and stayed at Jaci’s Tree Lodge. The Tree Lodge is an adult’s only lodge situated in amongst trees on raised platforms.
The ‘hides’ which overlook waterholes are wonderful opportunities to see hundreds of animals. During our stay we saw more wildlife in the surrounding waterholes than we did in the remaining part of the park combined. However, we would not have seen the range of animals without the game drives which are grounded in tradition, including morning tea and sunset drinks.
Getting to South Africa
Before I go further, with the game drive that will be forever be the most memorable – let’s address traveling to South Africa. One of our delays in returning to South Africa was the COVID-19 pandemic —as we all know —-international travel stopped for an extended time. At the time CDC still recommended against traveling to South Africa due to COVID-19 concerns. However, after having a number of conversations with our guides and hosts, and independent research we made the personal decision to travel.
Certainly, wearing a mask for almost 30 hours during the trip (with early arrival, layovers, and the flight) was not the most pleasant experience and near the end, I was feeling short of breath. But we made it. The concerns over COVID-19 impact travel everywhere. You could see it at the airports. Our first trip into O.R. Tambo International Airport was what you would expect of an international airport anywhere – full of travelers and long lines through immigration.
The Team at Jaci’s Make Our Stay Special
This time — there were no other travelers except for our partially filled flight. Upon arrival to Jaci’s Tree Lodge we were warmly greeted and provided a tour of the facility. Over the week-end there were a number of South African’s enjoying a holiday. Once they left Monday morning, we were the only guests Monday and Tuesday evening.
During our first visit one of our favorite memories are the large family size gatherings around one big table for the evening meal. However, the staff at Jaci’s went out of their way to make this stay memorable. Our first evening rather than sitting at on one large table, each group sat around the fire at their own tables. The soft lighting and fire made the evening added to the romance and enhanced the experience. While would have loved the opportunity to chat with our fellow travelers the evening was lovely.
Monday evening, they invited us to take advantage of the “love nest” — a hide set up beside the watering hole with a tented bed, hot tub and facilities under the stars. They arranged for us to have our evening meal served there as well. It was a lovely evening.
Then on Tuesday evening, they arranged for dinner out at the larger hide, where the chef cooked the meal outside and the hosts Andrew and Rhona Currell joined us. We had a lovely evening and we enjoyed getting to know Rona and Andrew. While there weren’t the number of international guests that we have enjoyed in the past, the staff at Jaci’s went out of their way to ensure that we had a truly wonderful experience. One last word regarding COVID, a friend asked me if I ever felt “unsafe” in regards to COVID. Honestly, I did not. We carefully planned our trip and enjoyed nature and avoided the dense urban populations on this trip.
Our Last Game Drive
Let’s talk —African Painted Dogs. Dewayne, our driver and guide, for our game drives met us early on our last game so that we could drive to the south edge of the park to see the two male cheetah brothers. But when he met us, he shared that they had sighted the African painted dogs that morning. So… did we still want to go south? Or, did we want to go north to see if we could find the dogs? The dogs of course!
We had already seen a female chetah and 3 youngsters on our first drive. Off we went, headed to the north side of the park. Dewayne and another guide Jacob worked together to begin a coordinated effort to find the dogs. On our way, north – Dewayne stopped suddenly – backed up and pointed – a black rhino. We had been looking for the last 4 drives and suddenly out of nowhere – a male black rhino!
This is so characteristic of game drives. You never know what you will see. So much depends on being at the right place at the right time… and having a good guide that has done research and communicates with the other guides in the park. We were so excited and fortunate to be able to see a this critically endangered animal.
Our Search Continues
Off we go again headed north. Driving up and down and across roads with a coordinated plan between the two drivers. They communicated their efforts to the larger group of guides and another guide volunteered to join the coordinated search. After an hour of looking, Dewayne decides to go back to the site of the impala kill from the morning to walk the tracks to see if he an get a better idea of the direction that they headed. We sit in the vehicle….….. watching and looking out for Dewayne……about 20 min pass and there is Dewayne. We have a clearer direction…more coordination, more driving and looking for tracks and any signs.
We continue searching the side of the road for tracks and sign. I hang out the edge looking for foot prints – nope those are hyena….nope those are jackal….nope those are impala prints overlayed on one another….clearly, I am not leaving my day job anytime soon to become a tracker😊. But Dewayne remains patient and positive. Then, I see large ears peeking out over a bush – I yell, “There!”. Dewayne slams on the breaks, backs-up and to everyone’s laughter it is a steinbock. Yes, ok –there was lots of joking at my expense but it was all in good fun.
At 4:30, Dewayne tells Jacob that we are stopping for a short break and refreshment. We are in the middle of our break, when the radio goes crazy….Jacob has spied one of the dogs. We pack up the refreshments at an incredible speed and we are off….racing towards the dogs.
Then Chuck and I yell at the same time, “There!” And this time it really is the dogs. Three of them on the other side of the fence. We race up and around the fence and we are – within 10 yards of the dogs. I grab the camera and as I record them… tears streamed down my face. The emotion and importance of seeing the dogs was more than I anticipated. After capturing them on video, I sat the camera aside and just enjoy them… wait!
They are on the move. At a quick pace, the 3 join up with the other 2 dogs from this pack. Dewayne is busy driving and calling in the location so that other vehicles and park guests can have a turn (there is a 2-truck limit on the dogs). We pursue the dogs to keep track of them. It becomes apparent to Dewayne that they are on a hunt.
The Dogs are on a Hunt!
Oh my gosh, while we are waiting on the next vehicle to arrive, we may actually get to see the dogs in action. And we do. It was amazing, they take off and then they stop. Three take off to the left, one stops while the other two go further while two stay right in front of us. And then…… orchestrated chaos occurs. While we can’t see the all dogs, we know exactly where they are …..because an impala herd takes off. What an incredible sight…. An arch of impala jumping. It looks like a rainbow of antelope as a continual stream of antelope leap and run from the dogs.
As they move from our left to right at a break neck pace, Dewayne takes off so as to not to lose sight of the dogs. The alpha pair are out front running at an incredible speed – to take down an impala. It was a crazy ride two hands on the rail with us tracking the dogs, providing direction as Dewayne navigated the bush.
And just as quickly as it started, it was over
…..a missed opportunity. It over for us as well, the other trucks had arrived, the crazy run is over so the next truck can easily pick up the trail and others have an opportunity to see the African painted dogs. This particular pack has pups in the near hill side and they will continue to hunt so they can feed the pups.
Wow, what a wild exciting drive and it was only 5:30. Chuck and I were thrilled and invite Dewayne to take us back to the lodge to join us for a drink. I hope you enjoyed our adventure and seeing of the African painted dogs as much as we did.
